Mondovì

One of the highlights of a Piedmont tour is the town of Mondovì and the surrounding territory of the Monregalese Hills in Italy’s northwest corner.

At the foot of the southern Alps, where Piedmont and Liguria meet, Mondovì is a small town built on two levels. Three different settlements merged into one fortified town.

Once a battlefield of the House of Savoy, thanks to its strategic trade and military position, this part of Piedmont preserves a rich legacy of Baroque architecture from the 17th and 18th centuries, largely shaped by local architect Francesco Gallo.

The surrounding territory of the town of Mondovì is home to another Piedmont must-see, the Shrine of Vicoforte, boasting the largest elliptical dome ever built in bricks. Other highlights include the Church of San Fiorenzo and several countryside chapels decorated with medieval fresco cycles.

Mondovì offers a glimpse into Italy’s captivating past and a journey into a fascinating territory rich in hidden treasures, legends, and lesser-known works of art worth visiting.

Mondovì Origins and Historical Highlights

Mondovì’s origins date back to the Roman Empire, but it truly flourished during the Middle Ages. Its strategic position at the intersection of mountain-crossing trade routes between Piedmont and the Mediterranean coast made it a vital settlement for commerce and military endeavors.

The surrounding territory is named in modern Italian “Monregalese” from the toponym “Mons Regalis” of the Old Town’s upland.

Mondovì Piazza is the old part of the city, founded around 1198 by the inhabitants of three hamlets—Vico, Vasco, and Carassone—who united their forces and rebelled against threats from local rulers.

This explains the town name Mondovì, which comes from “Mount of Vico,” the community’s first name.

In fact, the town has often been a battleground since the establishment of the diocese of Mondovì in 1388, when this part of Piedmont was taken away from the bishop of Asti.

Later, the House of Savoy left an indelible mark on its character and architecture. They recognized the town’s strategic importance and fortified its walls, building significant structures that still stand today. 

The town became a center of governance and culture, with an early seat of the university. Beginning in the 19th century, mass ceramic production shaped the local economy and significantly affected the town’s social life for about a century.

A Tour of Mondovì Breo

A tour of Mondovì begins from the lower town, known as Breo, which developed along the Ellero River.

Here, the church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul deserves a stop to look at the façade’s clock, whose mechanism is decorated with the shape of a local character named “Il Moro,” a popular character during carnival celebrations.

A second stop in the Breo neighborhood is the Baroque church of San Filippo, the first of several religious buildings designed by local architect Francesco Gallo.

The upper section of Mondovì, called Piazza, is connected by a modern and efficient funicular designed by Italian master Giorgetto Giugiaro.

Highlights of Mondovì Piazza

As one wanders through Mondovì, the remnants of its past are palpable. The ancient architecture, particularly in the upper town, narrates stories of a bygone era. 

The Piazza Maggiore is the central square, built on an incline. It boasts beautiful porticoed palazzi embellished with frescoes, such as Palazzo dei Bressani, dating back to the XIII century, the Governor Palace, and many others.

The majestic San Francesco Church attests to the town’s historical prosperity. The juxtaposition of medieval and Baroque styles creates an enchanting atmosphere, inviting visitors to step back and appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship that define this remarkable location.

The Bishop’s Palace of Mondovì is known for its precious tapestries and the historic Sala delle Lauree. Between 1556 and 1719, the University of Mondovì was founded in this room. The ancient University, with its geographic location and other cultural events, made Mondovì one of the most important towns during the dukedom of the Savoy.

In 1472, for instance, the first book printed in Piedmont with modern typography arrived in Mondovì, just sixteen years after the printing of the Gutenberg Bible.

Among the hidden gems of Piedmont and northern Italy stands Mondovì’s Printing Museum.

The works of local architect Francesco Gallo are spread across the town. He brought the Baroque style to southern Piedmont. Walking around Mondovì Piazza, for instance, one can enter the Cathedral of S. Donato and the Misericordia Church that he designed.

Things to do in Mondovì: La Missione Church

The Church of S. Francesco Saverio, known as La Missione, sits on the side of the central Piazza Maggiore in Mondovì, Italy.

Built by architect Boetto in the 17th century for the Jesuits, Andrea Pozzo, a well-known artist who worked in Rome and Vienna, decorated it. The painter created an illusion of architecture on the inner vault of the ceiling, giving the impression of a much lighter, more expansive space.

Next to the church stands the former Jesuit residence, the first to be opened in Piedmont in 1561, as suggested by Emanuele Filiberto, Duke of Savoy.

Today, the site is home to the Palace of Justice, whose outer walls were painted with an astronomical observatory featuring twelve sun clocks. This work dates back to 1716 and was used by painter Gian Battista Rocca.

Mondovì Ceramic Museum and Other Things to See

Mondovì, Italy, was once a major ceramics production center. Since the early 1800s, this territory has developed a distinctive decorative style used by local artisans, who were soon replaced by industrial operations that lasted until the 1950s.

The local Ceramic museum is an interesting addition to a Piedmont tour before continuing to explore the upper Mondovì Piazza.

From admiring the exterior of the 1700s Synagogue, the next stop is the so-called Parco del Tempo. This outdoor space features several sundials and other time-measuring instruments.

Most installations are around the Civic Tower, from which one can enjoy views over the western Alps, the Matterhorn, and Piedmont.

Mondovì is also a major hub for air balloon festivals, and the open-air Parco del Tempo is a perfect spot to watch them fly.

Art on the Monregalese Hills around Mondovì

Mondovì serves as a starting point for exploring the surrounding Monregalese Hills for one or more days.

Art lovers should not miss the Santa Croce chapel, located just outside Mondovì’s town center. Inside, it features ancient frescoes from the 1400s and a rare example of the brachial cross, a unique form of medieval iconography. This artwork is attributed to Jacquerio, a prominent painter of that time who worked throughout Piedmont.

Artists traveled between Piedmont, France, and the Mediterranean Coast, leaving several works of art scattered across the modern province of Cuneo.

Another must-see on a Piedmont tour is the small church of San Fiorenzo in the town of Bastia di Mondovì. Its 326 square meters (3,509 square feet) of frescoes, dating back to the 15th century, are an outstanding masterpiece of “biblia pauperum,” used to educate illiterate pilgrims about the stories of the Bible.

Different masters completed this fresco cycle, as the church served as a reference point for merchants, pilgrims, and soldiers traveling between Piedmont and Liguria across the mountains.