Asti and Siena’s Palio Horse Race
Origins & Traditions: Comparing the Palio of Siena and Palio of Asti
Palio of Siena vs. Palio of Asti: two of Italy’s most renowned historic events, featuring vibrant reenactments with hundreds of participants in medieval costumes, flag throwers, superstitious customs, blessings for horses in churches, and lively street celebrations.
The Italian Palio horse races stand out as one of Italy’s most visually striking and captivating social events, whether it’s part of a Tuscany or Piedmont tour vacation package. While both races have connections in certain traditions, they differ in their origins, settings, race formats, and customs.
Siena, famous for its long-standing rivalry with Florence, retains a medieval charm thanks to its preservation from WWII bombings. It is a must-visit when exploring Italy with a tour vacation package, showcasing breathtaking architecture, such as one of the country’s most beautifully adorned cathedrals, and the historic square where the Palio is hosted.
Asti, nestled in the heart of Piedmont’s esteemed wine region, is renowned for its wines such as the red Barbera d’Asti, aged Nizza, and the famous Asti Spumante. Although Asti enjoyed two centuries of power, minting its own coins from the 12th to the mid-14th century, it eventually lost its independence.
Under the House of Savoy’s influence, the city fell into the shadows of Turin, now embodying the essence of a tranquil Italian provincial town.
What is the Palio Horse Race?
Palio is a traditional Italian bareback horse race between city districts. Various smaller races take place throughout Italy, each with unique rules, such as the Legnano race and Alba’s Palio, which features donkeys instead of horses.
The word ‘palio‘ derives from the Latin ‘pallium,’ meaning “cloth” or “banner,” and refers to the prize. Each year, an artist commissioned by the City Halls of Asti and Siena paints this banner on velvet or silk. While artists have some creative freedom, they must incorporate certain traditional elements, regardless of their style.
For Asti’s Palio, these elements include San Secondo, the city’s patron saint depicted as a Roman soldier; the coats of arms of the competing districts; symbolic medieval representations such as a rooster; and the city’s white and red flag, among others.
In Siena, the Palio must feature the Virgin Mary, as the race honors her. Historically, the city has collaborated with notable artists, exemplified by its partnership with Botero in 2002, famous for his distinctive, rounded portrayals of humans and animals.
Palio of Siena vs Palio of Asti: Historical Origins
The origins of these horse races are difficult to trace due to a significant lack of documentation. It is believed that during medieval times, when cities were protected by defensive walls, residents near a specific section of these walls were summoned to assist during attacks.
Thus, we can infer that the Palio began as a competition among various city districts—or sections of the walls—designed to determine the most powerful area while also documenting the alliances and rivalries among neighborhoods.
Asti claims to host Italy’s oldest Palio, with the earliest reference to such a horse race appearing in a 1275 document by local historian Guglielmo Ventura. This event celebrated Asti’s victory over its long-time foe, Alba, marked by a race run beneath Alba’s city walls, resulting in damage and destruction.
For centuries, Alba and Asti have been rivals, vying for control of the Tanaro River valley, a critical communication route in medieval Piedmont. This medieval rivalry stemmed from the ambitions of independent city-states to conquer local territories.
In Siena, the first documented Palio horse race is recorded only in 1633; however, documents dating from the 11th century mention a Palio in honor of San Bonifazio, the patron saint of the ancient cathedral of Castelvecchio, which was used before the current one was built.
When visiting Italy through a tour vacation package, the uncertainty of the Middle Ages, the absence of roads and infrastructure, and the emergence of castles and defensive structures are elements prevalent across many regions. For example, it reflects the tumultuous relationships between Florence and Siena, or Florence and Pisa, in Tuscany.
From this perspective, Siena and Asti share the same historical background.
Visiting Siena vs. Asti: Track Layouts, Race Dates & Spectator Tips
Siena hosts two races each year on July 2nd and August 16th, whereas the Palio of Asti occurs annually on the first Sunday of September.
Siena and Asti allocate substantial funds and time to their respective Palio events, which significantly disrupt residents’ daily routines. This is because the public spaces where the races take place must be closed to traffic and prepared at least two weeks in advance.
Both Siena’s Palio horse race and the Palio of Asti occur in centrally located squares that are transformed into enclosed arenas for the occasion. A thick layer of tuff sands is transported by trucks, layered, and compacted. Siena sources it from Tuscany’s rolling hills, and Asti from Piedmont’s Monferrato Hills.
The average sand depth is 15 cm (6 in), and the track length measures 339 meters (1100 ft) in Siena, slightly longer in Asti. Siena’s shell-shaped square, known as Il Campo, is situated on an incline, presenting a challenging course for the Palio race, with some sections uphill, others downhill, and two sharp turns where jockeys frequently fall, risking injury.
Asti’s Piazza Alfieri, on the contrary, is flat but, like Siena, has sharp turns.
Surrounding the track, grandstands are erected for the audience, necessitating the removal of outdoor tables from Siena’s local cafés and restaurants, while in Asti, local parking areas and adjacent streets are closed.
Experience Palio of Siena on a Guided Tour
The beauty of the Campo, the medieval square that hosts Siena’s Palio horse race, is remarkable and a must-see on an Italy vacation package, such as our Grand Tour of Tuscany.
In Italian, “campo” means field, as this square was once the largest unpaved space in Siena. Today, it serves as the city’s main gathering spot and a landmark, celebrated as one of Italy’s most beautiful squares, showcasing the city’s wealth and power through the elegant facades of the medieval buildings surrounding it.
Additionally, the Campo features the City Hall and the adjacent Torre del Mangia, named after Giovanni di Balduccio, known as “Mangiaguadagni” (“Profit Eater”) for reportedly spending his entire earnings on food. Constructed between 1338 and 1348, the tower reaches 88 meters (289 feet), making it one of the tallest secular towers in medieval Italy.
For centuries, Siena has used the same square for the Palio, with races suspended only during wartime, the Napoleonic invasion, and the recent COVID-19 pandemic. The city takes great pride in this enduring tradition, which remains a stable and comforting fixture in residents’ lives.
Palio of Asti Historical Evolution and Locations
In contrast, Asti had long periods when the horse race was halted and likely forgotten.
Asti’s original Palio was conducted “alla lunga,” referring to a lengthy straight route along the high street, Corso Alfieri, with the finish next to the Comentina Tower, a tall medieval structure attached to a monastery, located in what is now Piazza Roma.
In 1861, a new market square was established, known today as Campo del Palio, though it does not align with the current race location. From then on, the Palio of Asti diminished into a mere horse race, losing heraldic relevance and resembling more a horse exhibition than a historically significant event.
In 1929, under Fascism, the Palio of Asti briefly regained its grandeur but moved location, running uphill along Corso Dante. It wasn’t until 1931 that the historical parade featuring costumed participants debuted in Asti, with costumes styled after those of the 1500s, intended to honor the House of Savoy, Italy’s ruling family at the time.
Yet in 1935, Fascist authorities prohibited Asti from using the term Palio, reserving it for Siena alone.
This decision demoralized Palio supporters and organizers in Asti, leading to the event’s suspension until 1966, when it returned to Campo del Palio before relocating to Piazza Alfieri in 1988.
While Asti boasts a spacious triangular square, its visual impact and frame in Piazza Alfieri pale in comparison to Siena’s Campo. Piazza Alfieri has two long sides lined with elegant arcades typical of 19th-century Piedmontese architecture. In contrast, the third side is dominated by a large, less appealing concrete building from the 1960s that houses the provincial offices.
Held annually every September, Asti’s Palio banners and other features of the horse race are visible year-round, especially with the help of a local guide. To combine Asti’s historic charm with its culinary delights, world-class Barolo tastings and Michelin-starred dining, discover our 6-day Food and Wine Tour in Piedmont.
Asti and Siena’s Palio Horse Race City Districts
In Siena, only ten of the seventeen Contrade participate in each race (seven by rotation and three drawn by lottery). In contrast, Asti has 21 contenders, comprising 14 Rioni from the city and 7 from surrounding towns scattered across the province.
The Asti race lasts most of the afternoon because not all horses can compete at once. There are three groups of seven horses each, and in the fourth race, the three winners from the earlier heats face off in the final competition.
In both cities, the races are brief, lasting only a couple of minutes, and consist of three clockwise laps. In Siena, the ten horses compete together in a single decisive race, resulting in a quicker show, while in Asti, the excitement carries on if a Rione wins one of the earlier groups, culminating in the final race.
Interestingly, some of Siena’s districts, called Contrade, are named after exotic animals that were not present in medieval Tuscany, such as the elephant (emblem of the Tower’s Contrada), the Panther and Giraffe, as well as fantastical names like the Wave, Unicorn, and Dragon.
In contrast, the districts in Asti, known as Rioni, are named after major churches or local neighborhoods, like San Secondo, Cattedrale, and San Martino.
Accessing one of Siena’s passionate Contrada museums can be challenging, as they are typically not open to the public. Still, experiencing Siena’s Cathedral and iconic Piazza del Campo firsthand is a highlight of any trip to Central Italy. Alongside boutique villa stays in Val d’Orcia, our small group on our 9-day Tuscany Tour gains unique access to these exclusive Contrada premises, witnessing firsthand where preparations for the next Palio take place and discovering the profound sense of cohesion and passion the locals share.
Asti and Siena’s Palio Horse Race Prizes
In Siena, the strict rules of the Palio leave no room for second-place celebrations. Essentially, the one who finishes second is seen as the first loser!
In contrast, Asti adopts a more generous approach, offering multiple prizes that decrease in value. The second place receives a bag of silver coins, the third gets spurs, and then there’s a live rooster—a symbol of the medieval free Commune—and a cockade. Last place earns a salad topped with salted anchovies, a humorous reward with historical significance. For a long time, salted anchovies were the only available sea fish in Piedmont and served as natural flavor enhancers.
Additionally, the riders are professional jockeys who undergo extensive training to ensure peak physical condition for the race. They do not belong to any specific district and, except for a few rare cases, they aren’t locals from Siena or Asti. Their main goal is to position their horse strategically in the lead, whipping the competition if necessary. However, a shared rule between Siena and Asti dictates that the horse is the true winner, even if the jockey falls.
This means that if a jockey falls during the race—particularly during one of the sharp turns on the tracks in Siena and Asti—but the horse keeps going, without losing the district’s coat of arms attached to its head, it still wins.
The champion is awarded the coveted Palio—a hand-painted banner that is paraded through town for weeks or months following the victory, often mocking the enemies. Afterward, the won Palio is preserved in the district’s museum, alongside old costumes, flags, and other memorabilia.
Siena and Asti travel itinerary on Guided Italy Tours
Meet Piemonte crafts small-group tours focused on one Italian region at a time, avoiding excessively long drives and spending more time soaking up the vibe of each corner of Italy. Therefore, the Siena and Asti travel itinerary can be split between two regions, with two curated Tuscany and Piedmont tour packages.
Asti, located in the heart of Piedmont, is about an hour and a half from Milan and a forty-minute drive from Turin. In contrast, Siena sits in central-southern Tuscany, about an hour from Florence.
Asti is a favorite stop on our culinary tour of Piedmont, where we visit a historic chocolate and nougat producer and a cheese refiner’s farmhouse just a few miles outside the town center. Siena is a highlight of our guided Tuscany tour, where we stop on our way from Montalcino and Val d’Orcia to Lucca.
Experience Italy's Palio Culture & Historic Regions Firsthand
Whether you are drawn to the dramatic hills of Tuscany or the wine landscapes of Piedmont, both regions offer rich medieval traditions and unforgettable local culture:
- Explore Siena & Central Italy: Join our small-group 9-Day Grand Tour of Tuscany to visit Siena, Val d'Orcia, Lucca, and Florence with expert local guides.
- Explore Asti & Northern Italy: Immerse yourself in Piedmontese gastronomy and medieval heritage on our 6-Day Piedmont Food and Wine Tour.
